Monday, April 23, 2012

Wild Rampant


Appalachia Ramps
My husband came home one day from work and told me about a co-worker who goes harvesting for wild ramps in the mountains of West Virginia every spring. Later on, his co-worker brought us a bundle of freshly harvested ramps. I sautéed them with oil, garlic, salt and pepper. We have been hooked on them ever since. What are ramps, you ask? The flavor is a blend between onion and garlic, a milder version. It has a white bulb like an onion, but the purple stem and elongated green leaves reminds me of the ginger plant. Most of its population is grown in Appalachia, from West Virginia to the Carolinas. West Virginia ramp festivals are well known in early spring.

Like any other food you may have encountered, different processes produce different outcomes of flavor. Most recipes treat ramps like leeks, cooking it with potato and egg. I prefer mine in several ways:


Grilled with Romesco Sauce
One way is to treat it similarly to a Spanish onion. The ramps are grilled on medium high heat for a few minutes and served with Romesco sauce (a combination of almond, paprika, sherry vinegar and olive oil), on a piece of bread. When ramps are grilled, they are cooked briefly to bring out the sugar content, coupling with the smokiness of the charred leaves. Romesco sauce contrasts the ramps flavor with nutty, tangy flavor.
Saute with Curried Spotted Trout
The second way is to do a Surf and turf, using Ramps with North Carolina coast spotted trout. The fish is sliced into steak, about 1/2" thick each and deep fried until crisp. I sautéed the ramps with curry powder, fish sauce and oyster sauce for about 5 minutes. And then I added the fish at the end to soak up the sauce and the flavor of ramps. It was scrumptious with a plate of jasmine rice.
Pickled with Thai Chili
The third way is to pickle the ramps. I must admit that this is my first jar of pickled ramps. I added a few Thai chilies to add some spiciness in the jar. Pickled garlic in fried eggs was one of my morning comforts growing up. Let us see how the flavor of pickled ramps compare to my old stand by.

Onion, garlic, leek...they are what they are. But ramps have their own flavor, similar but not the same. So, give ramps its own profile and the credit it deserves. Better yet, give it a try. It is grown in your backyard. We just need a better chef who can prepare it well, other than the usual egg and potato.

Cheers!
Teera

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Holidays Recap


In-Laws Easter Table
I still remember the first time I tasted a sprig of parsley, dipped in salt water. The thin crusty matzah with a spread of apple sauce was a flavor that is hard to comprehend, but the reasoning behind it all was easy to remember...to be reminded of what the Jews had to go through during hard times. Hardship comes in many forms. Religions have ritual that reminds us of good times, bad times and times to let go. Foods, eaten during the holidays, bring the taste buds to another level in association with memories.
Spicy Deviled Eggs
Our kids got very excited about EB (Easter Bunny). But after a week of eating chocolate and 4 baskets full of Easter eggs, I think we all had enough of the sugar high. We had our Easter feast at my in-law's house. The usual ham, turkey, potatoes, vegetable, and hot cross buns filled up the table. My contribution was spiced deviled eggs. Egg is where many lives begin. With a few asparagus sprigs, the Easter meal is completed. Having a meal at the plantation does make me feel like I have gone back in time. Eating and having a discussion about my husband's ancestors feels like they are looking over us. Though, I am very happy with finding a Thai Buddhist temple in the Raleigh area. It is a small temple, but close by. The kids enjoyed doing " Tum Boon" and putting pieces of gold leaf on the Buddhist statue. "Tum Boon" literally means making good karma. The word "boon" is an opposite with the word "Gum" (karma). Monks live off of what is being given from the community. Giving food to the monk is considered one of the good deeds since it helps sustain the monks who follow strict Buddhist rules which is much more difficult than the lay person rules. To be a monk is a step closer to enlightenment. When the temple is not within reach, I usually end up at the local food bank. Donating food is another good deed that one can do...a favorite one of mine. Buddhist New Year is the time of cleansing and renewal. I do remember my relatives, arriving from far and beyond, to pour fragrant water over my grandparents. In return, they receive blessing for prosperity from my elders. 
Pork Salad and Pork Lemongrass Sausage
Enough with the ritual! Every Thai New Year is my chance to also see other Thais and eat authentic Thai food. I used to attend Wat Thai DC in Maryland. They usually have a temple festival after the ceremony with 50 Thai restaurants selling awesome Thai food. Though I found only a couple vendors at Wat Thai Raleigh, it was just right. Grilled, spicy lemongrass sausage, sticky rice, sundried beef and fresh cured pork salad. It may look like fried rice to you, but I can tell you that it is nothing like fried rice. It has crispy fried rice, raw cured pork, pork skin and peanuts as the main ingredients, eaten with lettuce, sorrel leaves, chili and coriander.  I hope we all had a good holiday. I did. The weather is in the high 70s today with clear blue sky and rolling cumulus clouds. I feel light and ready to fly. Cheers! Teera   

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

True Thai Hole in a Wall

Saigon(Thai) Bistro Chicken Basil Stirfry
How often do you get lucky and stumble upon a hole in a wall that makes you feel right at home and bring back your taste buds? I got really lucky. Looking only at the name can be deceiving--Saigon Bistro. The restaurant opened 2 months ago on South Main St. of Wake Forest, NC. After seeing the menu, a long list of Thai food gives you a hint that Thai food dominates sushi and Vietnamese food in the restaurant. My suspicion is further confirmed after speaking to the owner, the chef and the wait staff...all speaking Thai and cooking Thai. The owner could not afford to change the name, not yet. No offense to other Thai food enthusiasts, but real Thai food is best when it is made by those who grew up eating it. The Thai taste buds are your second nature, engraved in the genes. Just make sure you tell them that you can handle the Thai heat when visiting the joint and you will be in good hands. Though not all Thai's can master the easy fix of basil stir-fry, I found out. This place has it down. The spice level was perfect. The chef extended her skill to 2 other dishes--crispy duck basil and soft shell crab "Curry". The soft shell crabs were flour dusted, deep fried until crisp and then topped with curry powder and egg sauce. This dish is traditionally prepared with hard shell crab. Making it with soft shell sure is less messy to eat. I almost cried when the cook came out and delivered the food at the table...she made me feel like eating at a restaurant back in Thailand. Saigon Bistro or Thai Bistro, the name does not matter, as long as the food stays true Thai...I will go back for more.


"Pad See Ew"
Another one of my favorite, or should I say our kids favorite restaurant, is Thai House at the intersection of Hardimont and Wake Forest Road in Raleigh, NC. Every Thai restaurant has their specialty. I rarely order Pad Thai or Lemongrass soup when visiting Thai restaurants. Our kids voted Thai House for the best "Pad See Ew", translation--stir-fried wide rice noodle with dark soy sweet soy sauce. 
Papaya Salad
I go for the papaya salad with the house pickled blue crab. Lightly brined blue crab gives a tremendous depth to the bouncy young papaya. The tangy and sweet dressing is coupled with Thai chili. You may be on fire, but that could hardly stop you from going back for more. My husband's favorite dish is "Nam Tok" or waterfall, Thai beef salad. Jirawan who is the Chef/owner here will often greet you at the dining room and will tell you the Thai Special of the day. Don't be shy...ask her. Her crews back in kitchen are mostly Laotian. That's why you should order all the "Yum" or salad at the restaurant.
I have visited other Thai restaurants in the area, namely the infamous Thai Cafe (both Wake Forest and Durham locations), Sawadee Thai, Bangkok Thai, Lemongrass Thai, and Thai Villa and was totally disappointed. 

Beef Salad "Water Fall-Nam Tok"

Three basic rules of thumb when looking for true Thai flavors are:
One, the herbs and chili used in these restaurants should be fresh, not dry. Not all Thai dishes use fresh chili and herbs, but most require it. The fresh ingredients make the dish what it is.
Two, the most important thing is the balance of flavors. It should not be too thick with spices or too thin. There is no room for the term mushy. The food should be bouncy, crispy, bright and enlightening.
The third rule of thumb, seek it and you shall find. A true Thai turns the world upside down to find the best of the best. Many times I refer to my family to tell me who is cooking a certain type of food best and where. The answer I often get is "skip the town", go to a shack that has big trees in front, on a no name street and follow the cooking fragrance. You will find what you are looking for under the shade of those trees.

Cheers!
Teera


 

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Lamb me Crazy!


Grilled Rack of Fennel Lamb
Last week, the whole town was practically engulfed with fog in the 80 degree weather.  Not just an ordinary fog, it was a misty green dust of pollen, swirling up and down, left and right, like it was the work of a fairy, sprinkling the magical dust.  By the time the weekend rolls around, thank goodness, the sky broke down and washed the dust away.  It is about 70 degrees and dry today.  My body has no referencing point...to be hot or not to be hot?

Full moons come and go, signaling the rise and fall of water and signify the important of religions.  Holidays are around the corner--Easter, Passover and Thai Buddhist New Year.  What am I going to cook?   I laugh when our children told us that that they are a mixed religion, but proud.  My translation to the mixed religion definition is not to only be versatile, but also considerate of others and their beliefs.
I grew up in a country with a 95% Buddhist population with a religion class that was taught by a monk in school.  You would think that it's difficult to see goodness in other religions when what surrounds you is nothing but one teaching.  It all depends on what is being taught, isn't it.  "Every religion has the same goal--to be good", the monk taught us.  What would a kid do, but be open-minded?
The Tough cut, but So tasty
I had never had lamb until I came to the US.  After giving it a try a few times, I do enjoy the flavor.  The meat can taste gentle or strong, depending on the cut you select.  Most lamb these days is Australian.  I offer the family and myself the remedies of this bumpy weather, prepping myself for the moon and flavoring a mixture using 3 influences.  If you want to join in, remember to empty your mind before starting!
Braised Shank
On a rainy day, it has to be stewed lamb shank.
Sprinkled with salt and pepper, Sear 4 lamb shanks in a Dutch oven with a couple tablespoons of olive oil.  Set them aside and sauté about 5 min.--5 sliced carrots, 1 chopped onion, 4-chopped celery stalk.  Add 1 orange, sliced with peel on, 2 cinnamon sticks, 2 tablespoons of honey and 6 cups of chicken stock.  Add the lamb back, bring it to a boil and let it simmer for at least 2 hours.  Voila!
Happy Medicine-Vindaloo.
On a cold, dry day. I warmed up with lamb Vindaloo.
This dish was an early Portuguese and South Indian fusion, prepared with my favorite ingredient--chili, lots of it.  The best cut, I think is a leg of lamb, cubed.  Marinate 2 lbs of cubed lamb with a mixture of grind up 1/2 cup of Thai dry chili, 1 cup of vinegar, 1/4 cup of ginger, 4 cloves of garlic, for about 2 hours.
In a hot skillet, sate about 5 min., 2 onions sliced.  Add the marinated lamb, the sauce, and
1 teaspoon of each spice--clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom.  Add 8 oz can of crushed tomatoes, 2 tbspn of sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt.  Let it simmer for 1/2 hour.  Serve with rice.
Fennel, Pepper Corn and Honey marinated
On a hot day, I grill a rack of lamb.
I don't know about you, but rack of lamb marinated in fennel seeds, balsamic, honey, salt and pepper is to die for.  Grill the lamb at 400 degrees for about 10-15 mins, depending on your desired doneness.

Maybe I inhaled too much pollen and am under the influence of trying new things. Maybe it was the way I was brought up to always be hungry for new ingredients and tastes.  Living in a country where anything in the world is within reach...who wouldn't take advantage of that ability...you know I am.

Cheers,
Teera